Warhammer 40k - Adeptus Mechanicus Welcome to Mars Chapter 1 Armiger Warglaives
Warhammer 40k - Adeptus Mechanicus -
Welcome to Mars Chapter 1 Armiger Warglaives Welcome to Mars!
Chapter 1: Armiger Warglaives.
I (Gildoren) own a large, and mostly painted Necron army, but unfortunately we have never really played much 40k as we tend to concentrate on 8th edition Warhammer Fantasy Battles and Tabletop Roleplaying. A major contributing factor to the lack of 40k battles is the fact that when we get together for battles at my place, we don't have a second army to pit against the resolute Necrons... Introducing the boxed set “Forgebane”, a boxed set that contains new minis for both my Necrons and the Admech/Skitarii forces, this enables me to supplement my Necron forces and acquire a second army in the form of the Adeptus Mechanicus.
I picked this up from Element Games this time, but you could go to either of the usual spots, and I've added links for OZ/NZ, Canada and The USA to the end of this post for the first time...
If your interested I'll probably do an article series about my Necrons in the future, let me know in the comments below..
Age of sigmar new releases @ GOBLIN GAMES!
First up for assembly and painting are the Armiger Warglaives.
Assembly
Prior to assembly, I like to have an idea of what colour scheme I'll be using and plan what areas of the model need to be painted a particular way or colour. I decided to paint the Warglaives in the colours of House Taranis, this colour scheme is detailed in the Adeptus Mechanicus Codex.
Looking at the pictures in the Codex, I could see I would need to keep some parts separate for easier painting later.
Note the assembly instructions carefully - beware the areas where you need to avoid glue to enable weapons and arms to move.
1. Build up the feet and legs and attach them to the lower torso but leave the armour plates (2 x shin, 2 x thigh and groin) unattached.
2. Assemble the cockpit/hull but leave the 2 shoulder guards unattached.
3. Build up the 2 arm sections and attach the Thermal Spear and the Reaper chain-cleaver. (assemble the stubber and the melta-gun)
4. Acquire some small stones for the base. Give them a good wash and brush in soapy water then rinse, but don't glue them onto the base yet!
Keep these sections separate - painting them separately will be quicker and tidier in the long run.
Painting
Undercoat everything except the base and the red armour plates (2 x thigh and groin) with a light coat of Leadbelcher spray...then spray it again with another light coat. Ensure the coats are light and don't dull any of the details on the model. Once this is dry check the different parts of the model have been fully coated, use an application of Leadbelcher thinned down with water to pick up any parts that the spray missed.
Undercoat the red armour plates (2 x thigh and groin) with two light coats of Mephiston Red spray and once dry, apply a thinned down coat of Mephiston Red and apply 2 coats of the same thinned down coat to the top of the cockpit and the feet. Check after the second coat as it may require a third coat for a quality finish. Avoid the engine grills, gun mounting, view port etc. as these will remain Leadbelcher.
Undercoat the base and stones with a brown spray. I used Mournfang Brown from Citadel but I would recommend any of the Army painter range for cost, variation of colour and coverage, whichever matches your aspirational colour for basing your mini you will find here, just remember the postage rules for spray cans, its often better to lump them in with larger orders.
That's the base coating essentially done and we can move onto each areas sub-assembly. We now have to choose wether to have the model look like its come straight out of the Mechanicus Workshop or has been in operation in theatre for some time, and is a bit dirty/ dusty. I have chosen to have the 'workshop' look, so we now apply Nuln Oil (matt) which will create depth to the models details. to achieve the 'dirty' look then sub out the Nuln Oil for Agrax Earthshade and use some weathering powders to dirty up the "action areas" of the model. Use this same technique on the legs, arm/weapon assembles and Leadbelcher coloured areas of the cockpit. The stubber, melta-gun and Leadbelcher areas on the top of the cockpit can be washed at this stage also. Once dry I pick out a few features (including parts of the weapons) and paint them Scorpion Brass before applying a very light dry-brush coat of Necron Compound to highlight edges and details.
Now we'll move onto the armour plates and the top of the cockpit.
The two shin guards and the two shoulder plates which were undercoated Leadbelcher will be painted in the black and steel colour scheme of House Taranis. Two thin layers of Chaos Black and Chainmail applied to the relevant halves does the trick. Chainmail is also applied all around the edging of these plates.
Grab the two red thigh plates and paint the edges with Leadbelcher. Once this is dry, apply a wash of Nuln Oil over the Leadbelcher and a thin line of wash in the recesses between the Leadbelcher edge and the red. Repeat this for the shin and shoulder plates. Apply a tiny amount of Nuln Oil around the rivets of all the armour plates as well as down the groove of the groin plate.
Use this same technique for the top of the cockpit. Wash all the Leadbelcher areas with Nuln Oil as well as a thin line of wash in recesses like the door seal and a tiny amount around the rivets.
Once dry we can assemble the model. Twist in the arms to the relevant sockets (HOBBY TIP - DO NOT glue). Glue on all the armour plates. Glue the model to the base and then glue on the stones.
Red Areas - highlight the edges, ridges and rivets with Evil Sunz Scarlet.
Highlight metal rivets and raised steel areas with Runefang Steel and also paint the oval glass pane and the eye lenses with same colour.
Just before moving onto the base we'll finish off a couple of things on the model. There are some hoses that can simply be painted Chaos Black, washed with Nuln Oil and drybrushed with Mechanicus Standard Grey and you can also paint any piston cylinders with Chainmail. Paint up some purity seals, Khorne Red highlighted with Evil Sunz Scarlet for the wax then Doombull Brown layered up with Karak Stone and highlighted with Ushabti Bone for the ribbons, then stick them on. Or keep them aside and affix when the knight has vanquished some foe or undertaken some noble deed..
The stones and the edge of the base are painted Doombull Brown. I then mixed two really old citadel paints called Hobgoblin Orange and Worm Purple to approximate the same colour as the Citadel Technical Paint Mars Ironearth. This was layered onto the stones before adding a little bit more orange to the mix and applying this as a highlight to the edges of the stones. I then use a small modelling tool (essentially a small spatula) to apply Mars Ironearth over the base between the stones and feet. This dries to form a cracked earth effect.
(HOBBY TIP! note if you put a layer of PVA down first then the technical paint you get a greater degree of crackle)
The thicker you layer it the bigger the cracked sections. Don't be too worried about it getting little flecks on the rocks and feet - it will add to the effect. This paint takes a while to dry for the effect so I left it overnight.
Next finishing the model, apply the transfers to the appropriate areas. I then like to spray the entire model with a light coat of purity seal for protection.
Finally apply a glaze, I chose Guilliman Blue to the eye lenses and the canopy window. This is done last in order to avoid the glaze becoming dull when applying the purity seal.
That's it - we're done! I painted up the second Warglaive using the same techniques but I altered some of the spot colours here and there whilst maintaining its allegiance to House Taranis, just to give some variation.
Be at Peace,
With the Grace of the Asur.
Gildoren
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As promised we are trying to add relative links for OZ/NZ, Canada and the USA as I know much of you Beardlings are in fact based in our sister nations. So this will be updated with these links soon.
Australia / New Zealand
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